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EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:04 am
by Swordfish1227
Couple of EDC questions for you experts.

First off, my current EDC - Leatherman MUT. Love this tool, really solid, does everything I want. However like all leathermans it won't hold an edge. Is there any way to make the knife hold an edge for any length of time? I spend a lot of time cutting rope(Dyneema, Kevlar, PBO, Vectran - tough stuff) and cutting open boxes with boats in em. I can usually go about a week before its dull again.

Second, I recently acquired a Spyderco Native(I say acquired, it has been unclaimed in my house for two weeks - its mine now). Nice knife, great action, seen a lot of use based on the grip wear, but still sharp. I don't particularly like the balance(grip is way too light), and I am not a fan of the lock(I really like the blade lock on the Leatherman, very easy to operate). I've been looking at the Benchmade 553, and browsed through CRKT's website. Been looking for a tanto blade, under 3.5", non assisted. Don't want any legality issues with the knife whatsoever(even though I'm in Texas and pretty much everything goes lol). Any suggestions on knives?

Edit: to be a little more specific, the blade lock on the leatherman(which I really like) is essentially the same as the integral frame lock on the CRKT K.I.S.S. knives.

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 1:30 pm
by faden
Leathermans are multitools they sacrifice the knife for all the other tools.

I recommend a Spyderco, benchmade or ZT with crucible (ex. S30V) or tool steel (ex. D2). But even then you are still looking at trade offs of steel. The things you are cutting are enemies of pretty much any steel.

You may want to invest in a full-serrated (Spyderedge) Spyderco Military for hard use and a plain or combo edge secondary knife for smaller tasks or tasks that a fully serrated blade cannot do well at.

I my first EDC knife was a Spyderco Delica SS SE, worked great when I was working at AirsoftGI since I was going through box after box.

Personal EDC:
Benchmade 556 CE (154CM) - smaller version of the 553. Going through the tech room and the warehouse my edge wears down in 1.5-2 months.
Zero Tolerance 350 CE (S30V) - This along with the BM 710 have yet to wear despite constant warehouse use and card board artwork.
Benchmade 710 CE (D2) - In backpack
Leatherman Fuse (420) - In backpack, 420 steel is very soft so edge retention is for lack of a better word: "crap" as you have seen with the MUT which uses the same steel.

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 2:03 pm
by Swordfish1227
Is an Emerson CQC-7 worth the extra money($75 or so) over say a BM 553? I've heard great things about the Emerson, but is it worth it?

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 2:38 pm
by faden
Sure it's worth it. But not if you can get cheaper (price not quality) knives that are better for your tasks.
The CQC6/7's price lies in the materials used on the handle, lock and fittings. The blade is still the same as the much cheaper BM 553. I personally prefer the axis lock over a linear lock.

I cannot say that 154CM can stand up to everything you want to do. I can stand by the steel with 1-2 months before dulling on cardboard alone. Rope and anything else with impurities or grains embedded in the material will eat away at a 154 edge.

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:04 pm
by Swordfish1227
faden wrote:Sure it's worth it. But not if you can get cheaper (price not quality) knives that are better for your tasks.
The CQC6/7's price lies in the materials used on the handle, lock and fittings. The blade is still the same as the much cheaper BM 553. I personally prefer the axis lock over a linear lock.

I cannot say that 154CM can stand up to everything you want to do. I can stand by the steel with 1-2 months before dulling on cardboard alone. Rope and anything else with impurities or grains embedded in the material will eat away at a 154 edge.



Ah now I see that knife is the same steel. I'm having a hard time finding a tanto style in anything other than 154cm. Am I not looking hard enough or should I give up on the tanto point?

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:30 pm
by faden
Swordfish1227 wrote:
faden wrote:Sure it's worth it. But not if you can get cheaper (price not quality) knives that are better for your tasks.
The CQC6/7's price lies in the materials used on the handle, lock and fittings. The blade is still the same as the much cheaper BM 553. I personally prefer the axis lock over a linear lock.

I cannot say that 154CM can stand up to everything you want to do. I can stand by the steel with 1-2 months before dulling on cardboard alone. Rope and anything else with impurities or grains embedded in the material will eat away at a 154 edge.



Ah now I see that knife is the same steel. I'm having a hard time finding a tanto style in anything other than 154cm. Am I not looking hard enough or should I give up on the tanto point?


The "american" tanto design is mostly to strengthen the tip. I don't think that is the highest priority for your applications.

http://faq.customtacticals.com/geometry ... mtanto.php

From personal experience the american tanto design is more a gimmick. A traditional tanto point is more useful.

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:02 pm
by Swordfish1227
Alright. So I'll look for a benchmade or Spyderco D2 or s30v steel. Or maybe a ZT

Re: EDC knife questions.

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:39 am
by faden
They don't need to be specifically those steels but anything in their related family should do well keeping an edge.